High Compression D-Series (Honda SOHC VTEC) build

[downest]

I guess I'll post my build thread over here, seems like everyone loves the big power turbo setups... I'm building (again) a 12.6:1 D16 for my CRX. Power goal is 170whp and 130wtq, on 93 octane. I built a similar engine before but I had ignition problems (loose metal in the dizzy) that made the tuning difficult, and I went back to 10.5:1 thinking the compression was the problem.

Bottom end:
D16A6 block
OEM D16 crank
ACL bearings
ARP rod bolts
sharpened main girdle
shot-peened rods
PM7 (ZC) pistons with casting smoothed out
Hastings Rings
open oil holes on bearings
open and smooth oil pump channels
new OEM seals
new OEM water pump and timing belt
sandblast and paint block

Head:
D16Y8 head
ported and smoothed (not full polish)
remove hot spots and casting marks in chambers
Crower springs/retainers
stage 2 Crower NA cam for now, moving to stage 3 once the engine is running for a while
AEM cam gear
fresh OEM rebuild
Y8 3-layer headgasket


Most of the stuff I have already in the current motor, the changes will mainly be the work done to the new block, and the pistons/rods. The bottom end work is stuff I found on Endyn's site. I'm cutting down the edges of the main girdle so they are sharper corners to pull excess oil off the rotating crank. The oil passages in the pump and pickup aren't smooth, they bore them from two directions at the factory and install a plug, so I'm adding epoxy to the corner and smoothing/matching it for better oil flow. The main bearings' oil holes are smaller than the ones in the girdle, so I'm opening the holes in the bearings to match.

I'm still debating bigger injectors, my friend's 160whp NA D is getting pretty close to hitting max duty cycle in the high end, according to the Power FC, so I may try to get some Prelude 345cc in there. He's also on a pretty conservative tune IMO, my current setup can just about keep up with him. I already got the AEM FPR, but it's not installed yet as I don't have a pressure gauge.

I'll probably continue tuning with Crome on my P72, but I'm considering biting the bullet and going with a full Neptune setup, a friend of mine just got it and loves it (bluetooth FTW).

I've got everything I need pretty much, the block is totally taken apart and everything is cleaned, I'm planning on having the bottom end together by the end of this weekend. The compressor broke recently at the shop so I can't get the porting on the head done as easily... might go hit the student machine shop to git er done. I also have to figure out where and when I'll get the head cleaned and resurfaced before I assemble it.

Here's a pic of it now... it'll probably look exactly the same except the engine will be a bit cleaner:

[Celtic1982citleC]

looks clean...nice

[downest]

Any suggestions about paint for the header? It's a DC ceramic 4-2-1, of course it's not holding the ceramic well as usual for them. I'm thinking about blacking out the whole bay... eventually, like when I get a job after I graduate, I'll get SMSP with some jethot coating.

[Celtic1982citleC]

send it to swain tech and have it re-coated with their white lightning treatment. will keep temps down and its easy to keep clean

[downest]

I don't really want to drop that much cash on a part I'm not planning to keep for very long. I'm expecting to get the SMSP this summer. I just want to clean it up a little, I was thinking either some header wrap or paint for it.

[Celtic1982citleC]

wrapping it will be a better option imo. don't know of any paint (personally) that would be good for a header that was previously ceramic coated and will take those temp's?

[downest]

I got some work done this weekend before the JVG meet. I spent a bit of time in the shop while Jon (came to JVG with me in the Silver CRX, also with built SOHC VTEC) pulled the tranny on his car (another story... 21 spline shafts don't work with 20 spline clutches). I re-sized some 0.020" over rings to the lower end of the factory spec for end gap, I really didn't have to take much off. I also got the bearings opened up on the drill press, but I want to smooth the edges out still to make sure the bearings are flat. I used the ones that were in the block because I wanted to practise, and because I may use them, they look almost new. I stripped down the whole head, and while doing it I took a bunch of pics for tutorials (I've written a lot for CRXCommunity.com), like how to remove the springs and stuff. The head is ready to get ported this week, the compressor should be all wired up tomorrow. Then it's getting cleaned and resurfaced by a friend of mine, who's also taking my pistons and rods this week and cleaning the block. I de-greased and scrubbed the block a bit, but forgot to take an after pic, oh well. I took the oil pump apart to see if I could improve the factory flow at all beyond the inlet and outlet (as Endyn's article says), but I'm a little nervous to get too crazy with the die grinder in there, for marginal (if any) reliability improvements.

Anyway, on with the pictures... maybe the 56Kers are loaded now.

First off, some stuff for working on the engine, this will be added to old write ups too:

This is an easy way to remove the valve spring assembly, it's much faster than winding the spring compressor over and over again. Use a socket that fits on the valve retainer, and tap it quickly with a hammer, the keepers will pop out, into the socket:


Then once you get the keepers, retainer, valve, and bottom piece (what's it called?) out, you need to pull out the stem seals. I use pliers with a grippy tip and grab it and twist. It's tiring and can be frustrating, so use longer handled ones for better mechanical advantage, and grippier ends help keep it on there with the oil and stuff.

Removing a seal:


Got it:



Here's one set of valves removed, on the left I have the whole assembly laid out more or less in order of how it goes together:


The head stripped down:

[downest]

When you're taking the valvetrain apart, it's important to keep things organised. I use half-sized sandwich bags, make sure to use a ziplock or something so the little keepers don't sneak away. I label them with a number for the cylinder number, then "I" or "E" for intake/exhaust, and then A or B to distinguish between the two... You can see 4IB and 4EB in this pic:


I also keep all the parts together on a little shelf thing. The crank and bags and a few other things are on the bottom back shelf, head and parts on top, the girdle in front, and I have another tray that fits on top of the front one with the rest of the parts. I keep everything oriented the same way, and use absorbent towels underneath everything, which is convenient for writing on.

My shelf, adapted from my friend's old stereo rack:


Closer on the head:


The girdle, de-oiled, but not all clean yet, I'm waiting until after I sharpen the edges up. You can see where the bulges are on the top and bottom in this pic, I'll de-round the corners and make them flush with the rest.


Everything stacks nicely:

[downest]

And the rest of the block stuff:



Here's one of my intake ports, it's a lot cleaner cast than the D16A1 head by far:


Here you can see the oil pump taken apart:


... and in this well-focuesd and -centered picture you can see the "T" where the two bores meet in the exit to the pump. This corner will be filled with epoxy or JB Weld, I'll open up this port a bit and smooth the transition out.


And finally, I opened up the main bearings like I said before. I fitted a drill bit into one of the holes in the girdle to get the right size, then held the bearing flat on the drill press with a small vise, open side down. This way the bore would match up with the vertical bore of the girdle and block's passages. Here you can see the unmodified bearing on the left, a hole in the girdle, and the opened bearing on the right. They match up perfectly when installed, but I have to clean the edges of the holes up from the drilling, there can't be any rough edges. Any suggestions? I was thinking about using a circular file.

[downest]

Oh yeah, and here's the nekked block, before I washed it... I'll get some after pics when my friend cleans it up at work, and then when I paint it.

[mikecentola]

Damn! That's a lot of work! Looking good!

[silverandslow]

Toyo Tool's work amazing. I installed all my intake valve in about 10 minutes including VSS's as it also has an installer for those.